The TUDOR Chronicles; Chapter 6 - The Black Bay Watch Collection

If you’ve been debating whether you should buy the TUDOR Black Bay watch, then the answer in short is “yes”. Luckily, I won’t need to do much persuading, since the collection pretty much speaks for itself. But if you wanted to learn more about the Black Bay DNA and its deeply rooted genetics in the field of robust dive watch manufacture, this guide to the Black Bay watch collection will provide you with all you need to know. Here at Jura Watches, we are now proud to add TUDOR to our list of authentic luxury watch brands. For quickness, you can browse the TUDOR Black Bay watch collection by clicking here, or you can continue uncovering facts you probably didn’t yet know about the Swiss manufacturer’s iconic dive watch collection.

Where the Black Bay idea all began

When the founder of Rolex, Hans Wilsdorf began setting up the TUDOR watch brand in 1926, the Black Bay design was merely a twinkle in his eye, yet the brand’s first dive watch, incorporating the famous Oyster case would serve as inspiration behind the Black Bay model. The Oyster Prince Submariner was released in 1954, not long after the brand had formed a partnership with the French Navy. Whilst this original 100-meter water-resistant model that went by the reference 7922 featured the classic Mercedes hands seen on Rolex watches, it was soon followed by an improved 200-meter water-resistant version with a large crown. Over the following years, the Oyster Prince Submariner watch would undergo very subtle changes until the most substantial redesign entered in 1969, complete with the “Snowflake” hands which the TUDOR Black Bay line now adopts.

Building the DNA of the Black Bay

The launch of the Black Bay by TUDOR coincided with a period when the Swiss brand was busy developing an identity of its own. It stepped out from underneath Rolex’s shadow with a watch that tastefully combined elements from earlier TUDOR dive watches. The same can still be said for the brand’s modern-day offerings. Whilst the latest version, named the Black Bay 54, is said to be the most true-to-form model based on the Submariner ref 7992, the “Snowflake” hands that defined the collection were not seen on TUDOR dive watches until the late 1960s. The unique shape of the hands was thought to be introduced following the needs of the French Navy, who benefitted from distinctly different hands whilst trying to reference them in a hurry. The large screw-down crown is another defining feature of the line, which was introduced by the brand in 1958, whilst the geometric hour markers, treated with lashings of luminous material to assist with readability in dark conditions were brought into TUDOR dive watches of the 1960s and 1970s. Together, this eclectic mix of emblematic features denoting different chapters within the brand’s story in creating dive watches is what makes the Black Bay so hugely appealing amongst watch fans today.

Having long-installed off-the-rack movements, TUDOR Black Bay watches made for a great alternative to its sister brand, Rolex. However, since 2015 TUDOR has been focussing on developing Manufacture movements for guaranteed precision and performance. These accurate automatic movements now feature in all modern Black Bay watches, including those of the GMT kind, the new 54 sub-series and the 31, 36, 39 and 41mm models – all equipped with a fixed bezel instead of a unidirectional rotating one. In fact, despite the diversity of the Black Bay collection all of TUDOR’s Manufacture movements are developed similarly, with an impressive 70-hour power reserve (except the smallest size), a COSC certification and a performance of 28,800 vibrations per hour. TUDOR Manufacture movements also feature a traversing bridge and a silicon balance spring that is resistant to damage caused by magnetic fields.

Let’s now have a look at some of the different versions of the Black Bay…

The Black Bay

The core of the Black Bay collection is the Heritage 41mm model with a steel case and a black dial featuring an anodized aluminium diver’s bezel in matching black. Most of the dial options for the core range are black but there are exceptions with the S&G (Steel & Gold) iterations, which feature a very desirable champagne dial. This model features a steel case but with an 18ct yellow gold crown and bezel to enhance a luxurious finish on the wrist.

The Black Bay Bronze

In 2016, TUDOR released a unique spin on the Black Bay watch that further enriched its vintage vibe. The Black Bay Bronze watch was crafted from the same material used in maritime equipment such as ship propellers and diving helmets. Bronze watches are an increasingly popular choice for dive tools since they develop their own patina over time. With Arabic numerals at 3, 6 and 9 o’clock, the legible dial of the Black Bay Bronze watch is combined with a 43mm case, an aluminium bezel and a slate grey dial.

The Black Bay Ceramic

Released in 2021, the Black Bay Ceramic follows on from former models starting in 2015 and features a black micro-blasted monobloc ceramic case topped with a black PVD-coated stainless steel bezel engraved with a diver’s scale. Inside the case is a Manufacture movement – the Calibre MT5602-1U, with a chronometer certificate and magnetic resistant components.

The Black Bay 31, 36, 39 and 41

Known for their stationary bezels, the 31, 36, 39 and 41mm TUDOR Black Bay watches take the much-loved Black Bay out of its comfort zone as a diver’s inspired tool and elevate it for dressier occasions. A bi-colour S&G model is also available in these sizes, complete with an independent movement too.

The Black Bay Fifty-Eight

Named after the year 1958 in which TUDOR released the Oyster Prince Submariner ref 7924, the Black Bay Fifty-Eight watch hits the sweet spot for many collectors, thanks to its downsized 39mm case. Perfect for smaller-sized wrists, the Black Bay Fifty-Eight is also equipped with a Manufacture movement. A bronze version was also released, complete with a chocolate brown gradient dial and a brown aluminium insert on its bezel. The rare bronze bracelet that came supplied with the watch was also integrated with a T-Fit clasp for easy adjustments on the wrist. Other iterations in yellow gold and silver were also made available in this range.

The Black Bay Chrono

Celebrating the brand’s links to motorsport, the TUDOR Black Bay Chrono watch pays homage to the year 1970 when TUDOR released its first chronograph watch. Contrasting sub-counters make the Black Bay Chrono watch stand out on the wrist, especially since some of its most eye-catching colour combinations include an S&G version with a champagne dial and black-filled chronograph sub-counters, trimmed by a black tachymeter bezel.

The Black Bay GMT

The Black Bay GMT watch is the ultimate travel tool for anyone that loves the look of the Black Bay watch but requires a companion for travelling on business. It sports a 24-hour graduated rotating bezel in two contrasting colours to represent daytime and nighttime hours. Recently, the brand released the TUDOR Black Bay GMT watch with a stunning opaline dial, surrounded by the highly desirable Pepsi bezel.

The Black Bay Pro

As a sportier version of the travel-friendly Black Bay GMT, the Black Bay Pro differs from the more colourful offerings of the GMT and instead offers a satin-brushed steel bezel with engraved numerals to mark out the 24-hour GMT scale. An understated 39mm diameter is ideal for those with slender wrists and the watch is also powered with the Manufacture Calibre MT5662, whilst secured inside a robust 200-meter water resistant housing.

The Black Bay 54

The latest iteration to join the Black Bay line-up is the Black Bay 54 – the most true-to-form watch based on the earlier reference 7922 released in 1954. The watch measures a very manageable 37mm diameter, echoing the classic proportions of yesteryear. The MT5400 sits inside this 200-meter water-resistant dive watch, equipped with the classic black dial albeit finished in a satin radial-brushed effect, accompanied by Snowflake hands that pinch inwards at the base.

And that’s the main line-up of the iconic Black Bay collection by TUDOR. For more information, you can check out the models in more detail here or call and speak to a member of our sales team on 01335 453453.