Under The Lens with the U-Boat Chimera Chronograph 46 Watches

A closer look at the U-Boat Chimera Chronograph 46 watches with horizontal-striped dials and two-level dials.

U-Boat is viewed as a relatively young brand, but what many don’t realise is that its origins date back to the 1940s. Back in 1942, to be more exact, the Fontana family was commissioned to make instruments for the Italian Navy Submarines and that’s really where the modern-day U-Boat watches take their inspiration from. Readability was paramount for obvious reasons, as was reliability. But the brand’s future would not go as planned and many of Fontana’s unusual, bold and enticing designs would be archived, until his grandson, Italo Fontana stumbled upon them many years later. This story of unfolding long-lost family hidden treasures is a true one and one that adds a great deal of collector appeal to each U-Boat watch. Italo Fontana has been producing these large watches with left-aided crowns and crown protection guards for over twenty years. These features gave U-Boat watches their bold, dominating and instinctively recognisable looks. During this time of re-emergence for the brand, Fontano was one of the first to step out of his comfort zone and experiment with aesthetics in this way. He was also doing it using patented systems and new features, enabling the brand to stand out from its peers.

U-Boat’s worn look has become an increasingly popular design feature, as has its oil-filled models from the Capsoil range. But one collection that deserves to have the spotlight shining on it right now is the U-Boat Chimera collection. Recently, U-Boat extended this range with a slew of blue, green and black timepieces adorned with a striped surface pattern. The time-only version is the most simple of the two versions, with an additional 24-hour sub-dial that sits at 7 o’clock. Contrastingly U-Boat released three chronograph versions alongside it. Imbued with the same striped dial, they bring unusual colours to the table, along with a dose of vintage masculinity. One of the key features of the Chimera watch is the case, equipped with a left-sided cap cover on the crown. Removing this grants access to the crown and pushers of the chronograph. It comprises a hinged bracket that keeps the unscrewed cap attached to the case. This patented system ensures uncompromised protection over water damage and impact and joins a large case, crafted exceptionally well and a prominent dial with oversized hour markers. Let’s take a look at these U-Boat Chimera Chronograph watches in more detail.

The New U-Boat Chimera  

Trust me when I say that 46mm is a relatively modest case size for U-Boat. All three of the new Chimera Chronograph watches rock this size identically to the new time-only U-Boat "Chimera Geometries". The idea is that these new models, with grooves and two-level dials, encourage the wearer to perceive time through a new vision. Boasting new geometries, these chronographs provide accurate timekeeping through three-dimensional depths and a dial that captures attention with a new blend of technological innovation. The chronograph counters, for example, are arranged in an overlapping format, with the 24-hour chronograph function taking residence up at the top of the dial, the 60 seconds at 3 o’clock, and the 30-minute counter at 6 o’clock.

What gives most U-Boat watches such an interesting perspective is the brand’s decision to place the dial features in non-conventional locations. So here, we see the date aperture at 9 o’clock, positioned below the brand logo. The surface of the dial in each of these new green, blue and black U-Boat Chimera Chronographs is executed in a horizontal striped pattern, giving the display a unique sense of depth and dimension. Whether you prefer the earthy green version, the muted blue, or the stealthy black, each dial is framed by a tough tungsten bezel and surrounds hour markers, hands and indexes that have been laser cut. U-Boat opts for a sandwich-type dial in these new Chimera Chronograph watches for 2024. The cut-out numerals afford a glimpse into the underlayer of the dial, crafted from smoked sapphire. The effect amplifies the three-dimensional experience of telling time on these unique, but equally bold, timepieces.

One way U-Boat ensures a coherent look across the busy dial is by using a tone-on-tone arrangement, allowing the grey shades of the painted hands and hour markers to pop ever so slightly under a tough anti-glare and scratch-resistant sapphire crystal glass. Additionally, U-Boat opts for a 24-hour counter, arranged in an overlay across the 30-minute counter. The result is rather unusual, adding a touch of complexity to the display. An additional shot of colour can be seen in the black variant, too, where green-coated chronograph hands add an edge of sportiness.

Inside these tough 46mm cases crafted from 316L stainless steel is the Sellita SW 500, capable of producing a power reserve of 62 hours and performing at a rate of 28,800 vibrations per hour. The modified movement is equipped with one of U-Boat’s brass and tungsten rotors and the brand’s experts execute the movement with perlage and rhodium-plated finishes, as well as screwed bridges. The movement is put on display through the reverse side of the case, where a piece of sapphire crystal glass acts as a clear viewing window for the mechanism.

The blue and black versions of the new U-Boat Chimera Chronograph watches are fitted on an aged, laser-cut leather strap, treated with a natural process to achieve a rich black colour. The green version, however, features a U-Boat patterned brown leather strap.   The leather band is handmade in Tuscany and features waxed cotton stitching and a steel tongue buckle. Should you wish to get your hands on any one of these three new releases, you’ll be investing in a limited edition piece, since each model is exclusive to just 300 pieces.

To order one of the U-Boat Chimera Chronograph watches, call and speak to a member of our Jura Watches sales team on 01335 453453 or email us on help@jurawatches.co.uk.