A Look At the New IWC Portugieser Chronograph Watches

IWC had released some new 41mm Portugieser Chronograph watches with bi-compax subdials placed on a north-south axis in “Horizon Blue”, “Dune” and “Obsidian” hues – but which one will be your favourite? 

At the Watches & Wonders Geneva event this year, one manufacturer chose to crank things up a notch. IWC Schaffhausen – innovator of classic pilot’s watches made from ultra-strong and scratch-resistant materials – made its mark at the event and chose to celebrate four signature colours in its booth. “Silver Moon” to represent the early mornings when the celestial body in the sky makes its departure and gives way to the sun. “Horizon Blue” to represent the bright afternoon that follows. “Dune” – the golden hours of the late afternoon. And “Obsidian” when a blanket of night falls across the sky once more. You probably weren’t lucky enough to attend the annual Swiss event, but a few of our team here at Jura Watches were lucky enough to get an invitation. Despite the many displays worth noting this year, IWC’s had to be amongst the most impressive. Upon entering the booth, more treats and delights for the ears. The voice of Brian Cox could be heard offering insights into his area of expertise-astrophysics and the concept of eternity. But that was not all. These four themes, representing the different times of the day, were enhanced by Hans Zimmer pieces that played while the guests got to contemplate time and space and ponder the universe.

Recently, we covered the Portugieser Eternal Perpetual Calendar – an instrument with futuristic precision that can promise accuracy up until the year 3999! It makes sense, being an entirely new and exciting timepiece, that this model was put on full display inside the booth where the watchmakers keenly awaited guests, talking their vision through with those with the most discerning of tastes. These watchmakers were ready to answer any questions asked of them, including how the moonphase function built into the Portugieser Eternal watch could deviate by only one day in over 45 million years?!

While it’s safe to say, that the Maison’s professional capacity in crafting extraordinary timepieces like this is nothing short of fascinating, plenty of room was still made for classic favourites like the Portugieser Chronograph. Recently we covered the Automatic 40 and 42 watches, complete with small second counters or a bi-compax chronograph layout respectively. The four colours were incorporated into these designs beautifully, showing off the brand’s experimental side. At least two of these colours are not mainstream shades. Creating watch dials in new and adventurous colours is always a gamble but IWC seems to sail right through any possible uncertainties, however, and is sure to experience plenty of success with these new models. 

Speaking of new models, it’s time to take a look at the other IWC Portugieser Chronograph watches to have been released at the Watches & Wonders 2024 showcase. A quick glance at these shows that they’re equally, if not even more striking, with their legible bi-compax chronograph counters placed on a north-south axis. The sole focus on the emblematic Portugieser line this year demonstrates that IWC Schaffhausen is choosing the sensible route - to refine and perfect one of its bestsellers, rather than branch out into other new designs. For those that aren’t yet acquainted with the line, this is a 1930s pocket watch-inspired collection that comes in various complications from tourbillons, to simple three-handed dials, and, of course, the popular chronograph design. This year, IWC is treating us to three stellar dial colours; Obsidian, Dune and Horizon Blue. As mentioned earlier, these three shades represent the different times of the day, from the clear blue skies of a summer’s afternoon, to late afternoon duskiness, and the rich blanket of darkness that drapes over the land at night. 

More interestingly, IWC combines these different shades with a metal that best suits their elegant nuances. The Horizon Blue model is crafted from 18ct white gold, imparting a sense of opulence. The lustrous, silver-coloured Arabic numeral hour markers and feuille-shaped hands catch the light beautifully inside a 41mm case diameter. These features are also protected by a piece of sapphire crystal glass, which IWC uses in all of its designs. The Dune iteration (reference IW371624) boasts a beautiful warm sand-coloured dial with yellow-gold-coloured accents. These golden sandy tones compliment the stainless steel case of this watch perfectly and showcase the IWC Schaffhausen monogram, emblazoned onto the dial at 12 o’clock. The watch has been completed on a classic black alligator leather band with a stainless steel buckle engraved with the IWC logo. That watch shares the same movement with its two siblings – the Calibre 69355 equipped with a column wheel mechanism and a 56-hour power reserve. The in-house manufactured engine is showcased through an exhibition caseback sealed with the same sapphire crystal glass material. Through this lens, you can fully appreciate the meticulous attention to detail in the movement and all its traditional finishes. 

The Obsidian version of the new Portugieser Chronograph watch from IWC (reference IW371625) features the pump-style push pieces at 2 and 4 o’clock and sits at a height of 13.1mm once more. It also promises a water-resistant rating of 30 meters and comes dressed on a beautiful black alligator leather strap. The case, however, is crafted from 18ct yellow gold, imparting an exquisite, highly sophisticated aesthetic, especially when paired with the yellow gold coloured dial accents. Among the alluring golden Arabic numerals, the dial comprises the familiar 30-minute sub-counter at 12 o’clock, balanced by the running seconds sub-dial at 6 o’clock. 

If you’d like to learn more about the new IWC Schaffhausen Portugieser Chronograph Watches, recently released at this year’s Watches & Wonders event, you can explore the range here. Alternatively. You can call and speak to a member of our Jura Watches sales team today at 01335 453453 or email us a question at help@jurawatches.co.uk